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I posted
last month about our visit to Rye House Gatehouse and Rye Meads Nature Reserve; yesterday, we ticked another item off the list in my filofax with a visit to the former
Royal Gunpowder Mills at
Waltham Abbey -- a small town on the Hertfordshire-Essex border in whose church the body of King Harold was allegedly interred following his death at the Battle of Hastings, and which we first visited around ten years ago. At that time, work at the Gunpowder Mills had ceased and the site had been mothballed pending a decision on its future; it was eventually decided to transfer it to an independent trust and open it to the public as a tourist attraction.
Unfortunately. visitor numbers weren't anything like those expected, and the plans for the site were drastically scaled back: it is now open only at weekends in the summer months, in part because it is run largely by volunteers and subsists entirely from entry fees and donations. We didn't donate, but we did buy some stuff in the shop; and also bought tickets for a trip on the land train into the more distant parts of the site, which is otherwise closed to visitors because the remaining structures there are simply unsafe and because it's a recognised
SSSI -- we saw evidence of badger activity (their latrines), many birds (but not the herons who were once there, and seem to have moved away), and I glimpsed a group of fallow deer which disappeared into the woods as we approached.
I even took a few pictures. (What a surprise, eh?) Here are, in order:
1. Part of the canal system used to move gunpowder, nitroglycerine, cordite and other explosive materials around the site;
2. One of the (partially restored) flat-bottomed barges used on the canal system -- the stern half would be canal-worthy were it attached to something that would float, but the bow half has decayed wood and holes in the bottom;
3. The so-called wildlife observation tower, formerly the concentrator for one of the explosives manufacturing processes. Note the round-arched bridge over the canal to the right of the tower; this is a characteristic of the site. The rules were that no one was allowed to cross a bridge while a barge was passing underneath, in case something fell on it and set off an explosion.
4. One of the buildings from which explosives ingredients were loaded onto the barges. You'll note that the canal has dried up. Note also the thick walls between each of the building's bays: these were intended to ensure that an explosion in any one bay did not set off a chain reaction in the others by directing the blast up through the roof of the bay, thus containing it. You can also see, just to the left of the picture, part of an enormous brick "traverse", again to guard against the spread of explosions.
5. A derelict gunpowder milling and pressing plant. The mill is the building on the right (the water wheel is the give-away) and the press is the contraption on the left, which would have squeezed the gunpowder into flat cakes to ensure its consistency and stability. The press would formerly have been housed in a wooden building, which has now disappeared. Between them is an enormous brick traverse, intended to protect the mill (machinery was expensive -- men were not) should the gunpowder go off while it was being pressed.